Whisky Tasting Journey: March 2008
By Brett Calish

A
n Irish Sampling


As the great philosopher, Yogi Berra, once said, “It’s déjà vu all over again.” Why, it seems like only twelve months ago that I wrote a review of Irish whiskey. And, though it is quite tempting to NOT write an article about anything Irish in March, I can’t resist. After all, it’s about what the reader wants…isn’t it? Besides, it’s kind of fun. So in that classic shamrock-tinged vein, here are five whiskies for your perusal. As always, here’s hoping that one of them is your pot o’ gold.
 
Michael Collins (blend): Wonderful youthful freshness on the nose, with notes of vanilla, cantaloupe, anise, and a decided malty sweetness. This dram has a very light body, that segues nicely into its short, smooth finish which bursts with citrus (tangerines) and honeydew, vanilla creams, and slightly dry oak. A very tasty (and dangerous) everyday whiskey! The Big Fellow would be proud.

 

Michael Collins (single malt): Worlds apart from the blend. The nose is extremely “earthy”; full of caramel, toasted oak, wood smoke, Peking duck, and the faintest hint of citrus. With water, cocoa notes emerge. More medium-bodied than the blend, the single malt’s finish is slightly vegetal, with oak, peat, orange-oil, and chalk rounding-out its palette.
 

 

Knappogue Castle 1992: What a great, subtle nose! Young and “meadow fresh”, full of grapefruit, oranges, honey, and malt – this one really woke-up the senses. Unfortunately, it was all downhill from there. Very light-bodied, the rest of the dram in no way resembled its start. The finish was almost brackish, with roasted pecans, oak, caramel, and menthol. On the plus side, the finish was short.
 

Knappogue Castle 1993: More “traditional” than the 1992 version, the nose contains caramel creams, honey, vanilla, and orange soda. A medium-bodied dram, the 1993 had a hot, oaky finish, full of tobacco, malt, and pencil shavings. It also had me thinking, “Hey, that ‘92’s not so bad, after all.”

 

Knappogue Castle 1994: Finally! A beautiful complex nose that reminded me of a summer field in bloom, with melons, lemon zest, vanilla, and a touch of honey. The nose almost recalled a Chardonnay, but also contained graphite and gauze to “ground” it. The 1994 had a medium body with good mouthfeel. The medium-long finish had a nice depth to it, with more honey, burnt caramel, and nectarines, as well as a pleasantly sharp, oaky dryness. Now that’s an Irish whiskey!
 

Questions or comments are welcome, I can be reached at glen@whiskyguild.com

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